Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Highway 49--Gold Rush Country: Taste, Plymouth

Taste 9402 Main St., downtown, (209) 245-3463; www.restauranttaste.com. L on Sat, D daily; $$-$$$. Reservations advised. Well reviewed and operating in a comfortably renovated vintage building, this popular spot features a creative menu and impressive wine list and fills early. Warm wood accents the muted persimmon and deep-mustard walls, and large windows overlooking the quiet street bring in plentiful light. The menu changes regularly, but the unusual “mushroom cigars” (phyllo stuffed with a mix of mushrooms and goat cheese) are a long-time favorite appetizer. Entrees might include a giant braised Angus short rib paired with dramatic red beet risotto (which goes well with a Yorba Zin made with grapes from a vineyard that is just past one server’s home), or perhaps a grilled Tombo tuna with fingerling potatoes and artichoke salad. A selection of three housemade fruit sorbets—sometimes including blackberry-cabernet--makes a light ending.

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image c2012 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

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