San Francisco: Quince

Quince  470 Pacific Ave./Sansome St., (415) 775-8500.  D daily; $$$+.  Reservations advised.  Valet parking.  Known for  impeccable technique and fresh local ingredients, this sophisticated venue can be difficult to spot—it has no street number or name sign.  The menu changes daily but might include sea scallops with squash blossoms and sea urchin sauce, a fig and mesculun salad, tortelli stuffed with artichoke and burrata, or crisped halibut with eggplant puree and tiny green chickpeas—punctuated with an amuse and sweet tray.  Expect foam toppings and tiny portions of esoteric items—squid, octopus, eel, suckling pig—and delivery by a choreographed line of waiters.

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image c2012 Carole Terwilliger Meyers