June 24, 2015

San Francisco: Chinese Historical Society of America; things to do

965 Clay St./Stockton St., Chinatown, (415) 391-1188.  Tu-F 12-5, Sat 11-4.  Free. 

Well worth the two-block, uphill walk from Grant Avenue, and probably often overlooked because of it, the small Chinese Historical Society of America museum is located inside a landmark YWCA building designed by architect Julia Morgan.  It concentrates on exhibits related to Chinese culture. 

exterior of Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco
exterior of Chinese Historical Society of America museum
in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco


exterior of Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco
exterior of Chinese Historical Society of America museum
in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco



interior courtyard of Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco
interior courtyard of Chinese Historical Society of America museum
in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco


My favorite exhibit is the Frank Wong dioramas.  Wong grew up in Chinatown and enjoys recreating scenes from the past in miniature.  His little portals to the past depict his grandmother’s kitchen, an herb shop, a laundry, a shoeshine stand (it still exists on the corner of Sacramento Street and Grant Avenue), and a cramped SRO (single-room-occupancy) hotel room.  With great attention to detail, he made tiny wrapped packages for the laundry shop and tiny chopsticks for the kitchen table.  

miniature kitchen at Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco
miniature kitchen at Chinese Historical Society of America museum
in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco


miniature kitchen at Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco
miniature kitchen at Chinese Historical Society of America museum
in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco


miniature shoeshine stand at Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco
miniature shoeshine stand at Chinese Historical Society of America museum
in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco


miniature SRO room at Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco
miniature SRO room at Chinese Historical Society of America museum
in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco


More exhibits worth a look include a display of colorful fine Chinese clothing and hair ornaments 

elaborate hair ornaments at Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco
elaborate hair ornaments at Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco


and the new “Underground Chinatown,” which is set up in a room below ground a la an opium den and takes a look at racial myths and stereotypes.  

dragon leads to Underground Chinatown exhibit at Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco
dragon leads to Underground Chinatown exhibit
at Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building
in Chinatown San Francisco


opium exhibit in Underground Chinatown exhibit at Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco
opium exhibit in Underground Chinatown exhibit
at Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building
in Chinatown San Francisco


And let’s not forget the “Forgotten Art of Lion Dance Puzzles.”  I especially liked the centipede puzzle but have no idea how to solve it. 

centipede puzzle at Chinese Historical Society of America museum in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco
centipede puzzle at Chinese Historical Society of America museum
in a Julia Morgan building in Chinatown San Francisco


More Chinatown.

More things to do in San Francisco.

Way more things to do in San Francisco.

More ideas for exploring Northern California. 

images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers


June 22, 2015

San Francisco: Smokestack at Magnolia Brewing Co.(CLOSED); restaurant review

San Francisco

Smokestack at Magnolia Brewing Co.  

CLOSED  2505 3rd St./22nd St., Dogpatch; (415) 864-7468.  L-D daily; $$. 

bar at Smokestack at Magnolia Brewing in San Francisco
bar at Smokestack at Magnolia Brewing in San Francisco


Hidden in a long row of converted warehouses, this combo brewpub/barbecue restaurant also operates a full bar and serves a list of whiskeys and Tequilas so extensive that bartenders need to move a ladder along the tall wall of shelves to find the bottle they need.  You enter the rustic, high-ceilinged vintage warehouse that Smokestack at Magnolia Brewing Co. operates in through tall doors, and land in a welcoming atmosphere of old Delta blues music.  You seat yourself at a selection of communal long picnic-style wood tables with benches, at the bar on stools, or in one of the several booths.  An area in the back in the garage brewery has tables improvised from wood planks across wine barrels and strings of lights, and this is where they store stacks of almond and oak wood. 

I suggest reading the barbecue menu first, then getting in line at the deli-style counter in front of the unpretentious open kitchen to view the goods and order.  Everything is prepared in-house and nicely smokey from open-fire cooking--no gas lines here--including tender, juicy brisket (my favorite), lean pastrami with housemade sauerkraut, huge and tender Waygu beef ribs, Thai chili-cheddar pork sausage, spicy jerk chicken wings, and lavender-rubbed duck.  Meats are ordered by the half or full pound (at about $15/1/2 pound), but you can order 1/4 pound of each of several different types.  Assorted salads and pickled veggies are among the sides; my favorites were the tasty potato salad (though a few of the potatoes were not cooked enough) and the pickled red onions.  Spicy beef jerky strips are also available.  Large plastic condiment bottles on the table hold spicy kimchee BBQ sauce, spicy vinegar, and mustard sauce; rolls of paper towels stand-in for napkins. 

Once you’ve sorted out your meal, head over to the bar and select your drinks.  (Or, of course, you can do this vice-versa, and I would recommend that if there is a long food line so you can imbibe while you wait.)  I suggest ordering half-pints so that you can try several of the Magnolia brews.  We started with a refreshing light Kalifornia Kolsch, served in a small flute glass to keep it cold.  Then followed a biscuity, carmelly, malty Blue Bell Bitter, a grapefruity Jubilee Pale Ale made annually to commemorate the Haight-Ashbury Street Fair and honoring a Grateful Dead lyric “meet me at the Jubilee,” and a desserty coffee-chocolate Cole Porter.  Oh yeah, and they are family-friendly, too!

kitchen at Smokestack at Magnolia Brewing in San Francisco
kitchen at Smokestack at Magnolia Brewing in San Francisco

 
menu at Smokestack at Magnolia Brewing in San Francisco
menu at Smokestack at Magnolia Brewing in San Francisco


meats and sides at Smokestack at Magnolia Brewing in San Francisco
meats and sides at Smokestack at Magnolia Brewing in San Francisco



The original Magnolia Gastropub & Brewery operates at 1398 Haight St./Masonic.  


Dogpatch

There’s a lot to do in Dogpatch –more restaurants, a museum, artist studios, wine tasting, two breweries, 2 chocolatiers, a butcher, a cheese shop, bouldering gym and a museum. Allow time to explore.


 
More things to do in San Francisco..

June 19, 2015

San Francisco: Things to do in Dogpatch neighborhood

San Francisco

Dogpatch

3rd St./22nd St.; the Muni T-line runs down Third Street.

The historic Dogpatch neighborhood has working-class roots and is home to some of the city's oldest structures, including sweet Victorian cottages as well as dockside warehouses and factories.  It feels remote from the rest of the city and is a neighborhood in transition.  There’s a lot to see and do in here–restaurants, breweries, wine tasting, an ice cream shop, two chocolatiers, a butcher, a cheese shop, a museum, artist studios, shops, a bouldering gym, and more. Take time to explore.


Attractions
Shops

Arch  

2349 3rd St. 

Currently a pop-up, this shop has been all around the town for going on 35 years.  Arch is due to move yet again in July of 2015.  Meanwhile, it offers a delicious selection of art and drafting supplies as well as sweet gifts.  Stop in for a browse.

Arch shop in Dogpatch neighborhood of San Francisco
Arch shop in Dogpatch neighborhood of San Francisco


Rickshaw Bagworks  

904 22nd St./Minnesota St. 

This factory-front shop displays a large selection of bags--messenger, shopping, backpack—and many are made from recycled materials.  The motto at Rickshaw Bagworks is “Fresh bags made daily.” 

Richshaw Bagworks shop in Dogpatch neighborhood of San Francisco
Richshaw Bagworks shop in Dogpatch neighborhood of San Francisco
 


More Dogpatch . . .

More things to do in San Francisco

Way more things to do in San Francisco.

More ideas for exploring Northern California.  
 
images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers


June 17, 2015

San Francisco: Museum of Craft and Design; things to do

San Francisco

Museum of Craft and Design  

2569 Third St./22nd St., Dogpatch.  Tu-Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5, closed M.  $8, seniors $6, under 13 free; free Tu.  Free tour, Sun at 1.

Located within the historic American Industrial Center building, which was originally home to the American Can Company, the Museum of Craft and Design  moved a few years ago from its downtown location to the rustic Dogpatch neighborhood, with its galleries, shops, and restaurants.  The museum’s self-stated mission is “to be an environment for experiencing innovative contemporary work in craft and design that engages the community while stimulating the creative potential in peoples’ lives.”  Though small, the gift shop is exceptional, and you can visit it without paying admission to the museum. 

exterior entrance to the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco
exterior entrance to the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco


interior entrance to the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco
interior entrance to the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco


gift shop at the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco
gift shop at the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco


galleries at the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco
galleries at the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco


The current gallery show—Hands Off:  New Dutch Design at the Confluence of Technology & Craft—runs through September 13, 2015.  It features the the work of almost 20 Netherlands’ designers who follow the theme with innovative production materials and the reinterpretation of old techniques.  My favorites among them are “Sleeping Gold” (Grietje Schepers, 2014)--a moving, almost breathing, blob of gold lame fabric that I found reminiscent of ocean waves; and “Wanna Swap Your Ring?” (Ted Noten, 2010), which from a distance represents the outline of a handgun but up close turned me into a pack rat by inviting me to take one of 750 hot-pink miss piggy rings from within the exhibit and leave behind something of mine (I left a pen; wait until you see what other people left!). 

 “Sleeping Gold” (Grietje Schepers, 2014) is a moving, almost breathing, blob of gold lame fabric.

 

“Wanna Swap Your Ring?” exhibit by Ted Noten at the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco
“Wanna Swap Your Ring?” exhibit by Ted Noten
at the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco


close-up of “Wanna Swap Your Ring?” exhibit by Ted Noten at the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco
close-up of “Wanna Swap Your Ring?” exhibit by Ted Noten
at the Museum of Craft and Design in San Francisco

 
More things to do in San Francisco

Way more things to do in San Francisco.

More ideas for exploring Northern California. 

images and video ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers


June 15, 2015

Danville: Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site; things to do

(925) 838-0249.  15 Tours:  Guided, Wed-F & Sun at 10am & 2pm; reservations required.  Self-Guided at 10:15, 12:15, & 2:15; no reservations required.  Free.  No pets in house.  Performances:  (925) 820-1818.


Reached by a free 15-minute shuttle ride uphill through a gated residential neighborhood, Tao House is the rural retreat where Eugene O’Neill wrote his last plays--The Iceman Cometh, Long Day’s Journey Into Night, and A Moon for the Misbegotten.  Built in 1937 by O’Neill and his wife Carlotta, the Spanish rancho-style house reflects their eccentricities with dark blue ceilings meant to mimic the sky and built-in bookcases to hold the writer’s massive collection.  Though the house is not fully furnished and holds few original pieces, it is slowly being re-furnished with pieces from the era.


Fruit and nut tree orchards surround the spacious rural Eugene O’Neill National Historic Site.  Thanks to careful restoration, the house and its garden look almost as they did when the O’Neills left in 1944 after a 6-year stay—O’Neill’s longest stay in one place.  Tours run about 2-1/2 hours.  Because the tour is slow-moving and enhanced generously with lectures, it is not recommended for children under 5.  A tiny gift shop sells books as well as audio and video tapes of O’Neill’s productions.  Twice each year O’Neill’s plays are staged in the old barn, suspected to be the inspiration for the setting of A Moon for the Misbegotten.  



More things to do in Danville.

More ideas for exploring Northern California. 
  
historic images courtesy of Eugene O' Neill Foundation, Tao House

June 12, 2015

San Francisco: Palm House; restaurant review

San Francisco

Palm House  

2032 Union St./Webster St., Cow Hollow, (415) 400-4355.  L-D daily.  Reservations advised.

Named for the more-than-150-year-old palmetto palm that the front of the restaurant wraps around—it is Union Street’s oldest tree and thought to be the second-oldest palm in the Bay area—this popular drinking spot has seating in several areas, including a heated sidewalk-side patio and a slightly quieter back room adjacent to the busy open kitchen.

150-year-old palmetto palm at Palm House in San Francisco
150-year-old palmetto palm at Palm House in San Francisco


In the Palm Houses's central area by the long bar, colorful vintage birdcages hang from a 35-foot ceiling, and live plants enhance the tropical feel.

bird cages at Palm House in San Francisco
bird cages at Palm House in San Francisco


Suck-‘em-up drinks are primo and include several show-stopping group punch bowls served up with mega-straws and a floating rubber duckie souvenir,

group punch bowl drink at Palm House in San Francisco
group punch bowl drink at Palm House in San Francisco


a really tasty house Slushy (my fave is the passion fruit version),

passion fruit Slushy at Palm House in San Francisco
passion fruit Slushy at Palm House in San Francisco


plus a Mai Tai,

mai tai at Palm House in San Francisco
mai tai at Palm House in San Francisco


Pina Colada, Chipotle Mango Margarita, Aperol Spritz (recipe), Island Bloody Mary, and plenty more, and most are enhanced with an orchid.  When I visited, I witnessed a nearby group of six go through two of the monster punch bowls, and the photo they let me take came out as fuzzy as they must have been feeling.  Flavorful calypso wings with chili sauce and tasty fries with sweet mango ketchup are popular appetizers.  A tall bottle of chili-vinegar sauce is on the table for further flavor fine-tuning.  The California-tropic cuisine pulls from Cuba, Hawaii, Brazil, and the Caribbean such dishes as kalua pork shoulder with curried black beans, blackened or West Indian jerk mahi mahi, and Jamaican jerk roasted half chicken.  A burger is always available.  From the brunch menu, I chose the BLT on a soft topedo roll stuffed with delicious pineapple-sugar cane-glazed bacon and topped with a beautiful and tasty sunny-side-up egg that I slid right off and ate separately.

BLT with egg at Palm House in San Francisco
BLT with egg at Palm House in San Francisco


A Cubano sandwich, kalua pork hash, and huevos rancheros are also available.

huevos rancherso at Palm House in San Francisco
huevos rancherso at Palm House in San Francisco


To top things off, we shared an order of light and fluffy jalapeno-cheddar biscuits with kawaihae honey butter and it chased a grey May day right away. 

jalapeno-cheddar biscuits at Palm House in San Francisco
jalapeno-cheddar biscuits at Palm House in San Francisco


Le Bouquet

Allow time before or after to stroll the street and shop the boutiques.  Don’t miss the sweet Le Bouquet flower shop down the street at #2205.

Le Bouquet flower shop in Cow Hollow in San Francisco
Le Bouquet flower shop in Cow Hollow in San Francisco


Octagon House

If you plan carefully regarding open hours, you can also stop in at the Octagon House located a few blocks the other way at Gough Street.

Octagon House in Cow Hollow in San Francisco
Octagon House in Cow Hollow in San Francisco


Allyne Park

Tiny Allyne Park is adjacent and usually open even when the house isn’t.

Allyne Park in Cow Hollow in San Francisco
Allyne Park in Cow Hollow in San Francisco


More things to do in San Francisco

Way more things to do in San Francisco.

More ideas for exploring Northern California. 

images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

June 10, 2015

Oakland: TOAST Kitchen + Bar (CLOSED); restaurant review

880 South

TOAST Kitchen + Bar  

CLOSED  5900 College Ave./Chabot Rd., Rockridge, (510) 658-5900.  L Tu-F, Sat-Sun Br, D daily; $$.

Diners at lunch at TOAST Kitchen + Bar have a choice of sitting in the spacious bar—with thick wood-slab tables and concrete floors—or on nice days, outside on a roomy front patio.  

lunch in bar at TOAST Kitchen + Bar in Oakland, California
lunch in bar at TOAST Kitchen + Bar in Oakland, California


For dinner, an adjacent room opens its sliding barn door to an additional expansive space filled with comfy booths.  The small menu changes regularly, and features items to share--such as a popular white-bean spread and lamb meatballs—as well as traditional entrée portions.  According to my waiter, far and away the most popular item is the soup and sandwich.  It is more popular even than coffee or bread.  This day it was a bright-green spring pea soup swirled beautifully with a red-beet puree plus a scrumptious grilled-Swiss-and-goat-cheese sandwich enhanced with a strawberry-pepper balsamic jam.  I so want to eat this again.  My dining companions both ordered this as well.

pea soup and grilled cheese at TOAST Kitchen + Bar in Oakland, California
pea soup and grilled cheese at TOAST Kitchen + Bar in Oakland, California


Ironically (because of the restaurant’s name), I’ve heard the kitchen criticized for making lousy toast, but the toast in this sandwich it was the best.  I’ve heard in the past about a sweet potato-plantain soup drizzled with creme fraiche and topped with caramelized diced plantains and wouldn’t mind trying that, too.  The burger and kale salad also look great and are at the top of my to-try list.  How charming that sugary snickerdoodle-like cookies arrived with the check.  

cookies and check at TOAST Kitchen + Bar in Oakland, California
cookies and check at TOAST Kitchen + Bar in Oakland, California




Way more things to do in Oakland.

More ideas for exploring Northern California. 

images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers


June 8, 2015

Palo Alto: Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden; things to do

1431 Waverley St./Embarcadero Rd., (650) 329-1356.  Garden:  Daily dawn to dusk.  House:  M-F 9-2.  Free.

house and palm tree at Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden in Palo Alto, California
house and palm tree at Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden in Palo Alto, California


Located in an old Palo Alto neighborhood, the 1902 Colonial Georgian Revival house here features enormous pieces of interior redwood paneling unmarred by knots.  Today, volunteers maintain both the house and the manicured classic Edwardian gardens, which include small “rooms,” an assortment of soothing fountains, and scattered benches for quiet reflection.  Vegetables are also grown in the Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden, so you might see ripe purple tomatoes and other exotic varieties--all protected by a well-dressed scarecrow.  Each month has its special pleasures, but April’s promise of a cascade of blossoms along a cherry allée might be the best.  A small nursery purveys an interesting selection of plants, and classes and special events are scheduled regularly.  Picnic tables sheltered by an old oak are available, and just next at Bowling Green Park are expansive lawns for frolicking.

  
purple tomatoes at Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden in Palo Alto, California
purple tomatoes at Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden in Palo Alto, California


red apples at Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden in Palo Alto, California
red apples at Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden in Palo Alto, California


scarecrow at Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden in Palo Alto, California
scarecrow at Elizabeth F. Gamble Garden in Palo Alto, California


More things to do in Palo Alto. 

More ideas for exploring Northern California.
 

images ©2020 Carole Terwilliger Meyers
updated 2-29-20; 5-30-23


June 5, 2015

Berkeley: Eureka!; restaurant review

80 North

Eureka!  

2068 Center St./Shattuck Ave., downtown, (510) 809-8282.  L-D daily; $$.  No reservations. 

This roaringly popular restaurant operates in one big room with an open industrial ceiling and rustic, aged-barn wood walls.  At Eureka! diners sit at heavy cutting-board tables, and large windows look out to the street (in good weather, the window-wall slides back to the open air).

interior of Eureka! in Berkeley, California
interior of Eureka! in Berkeley, California


The menu features an array of burgers that all come with the house signature hand-cut fries.  Are you ready for the Bone Marrow burger—with bone marrow porcini butter, charbroiled onion, mustard aioli, oven-roasted tomato—or the very popular Fresno Fig Burger—with housemade fig marmalade, melted goat cheese, bacon, tomato, onion, arugula, and spicy porter mustard?  You can also order a turkey patty “naked” without its bun atop a bed of dressed arugula.  Main courses of salmon, steak, and short rib ragu are among the non-burger options.  I zeroed in on The Original Eureka!, a regular burger with iceberg lettuce, pickles, red onion, tomato, and special sauce, plus I added on avocado as an extra.  This was the juiciest, most delicious burger I’ve enjoyed in quite a while.  Top notch.  I upgraded the fries to giant, un-oily panko-crusted onion rings and added a side house salad with delicious parsley vinaigrette dressing.

The Original Eureka! burger at Eureka! in Berkeley, California
The Original Eureka! burger at Eureka! in Berkeley, California


house side salad at Eureka! in Berkeley, California
house side salad at Eureka! in Berkeley, California


My dining companion had the Pearl Street Blues Burger--melted blue cheese, herb sautéed wild mushrooms, grilled onions, and chipotle ketchup for the included fries--which he deemed “very good.”

Pearl Street Blues Burger at Eureka! in Berkeley, California
Pearl Street Blues Burger at Eureka! in Berkeley, California


Since a goodly selection of mixed drinks is offered, I selected a grapefruit-rum Hemingway cocktail and thought it went beautifully with my burger.

Hemingway cocktail at Eureka! in Berkeley, California
Hemingway cocktail at Eureka! in Berkeley, California


My companion opted for the more traditional beer, selected from the all-America-made beer list.  And all the while we were entertained by a plethora of silent TVs high on the walls and the happy ambiance.  Dessert was easy to select—creamy butterscotch rum pudding.

butterscotch rum pudding at Eureka! in Berkeley, California
butterscotch rum pudding at Eureka! in Berkeley, California


Additional popular menu possibilities include a beer sampler (four small beers), lollipop corn dogs, and honey cinnamon sweet potato fries.



More things to do in Berkeley.

June 3, 2015

Millbrae: Shanghai Dumpling Shop; restaurant review

101 South 

Shanghai Dumpling Shop  

455 Broadway, 1 blk. W of El Camino Real, (650) 697-0682.  L-D daily; $.  No reservations. 

Some people who visit the small Shanghai Dumpling Shop manage to snag one of the booths, which are particularly comfortable after the usual wait to get in.  The specialty dumplings are made fresh in the small kitchen and include Xiao Long Bao (juicy two-bite Shanghai steamed-pork dumplings) and Beijing-style boiled chives dumplings.  (Having just returned from my first tour of China I can attest that these dumplings are superior to anything I tasted there.)  An assortment of rice and noodle dishes (the stir-fried fat Shanghai noodles with pork are particularly tasty) and typical Chinese dishes round out the extensive menu.

interior of Shanghai Dumpling Shop in Millbrae, California
interior of Shanghai Dumpling Shop in Millbrae, California


making dumplings at Shanghai Dumpling Shop in Millbrae, California
making dumplings at Shanghai Dumpling Shop in Millbrae, California


Xiao Long Bao/Shanghai steamed-pork dumplings at Shanghai Dumpling Shop in Millbrae, California
Xiao Long Bao/Shanghai steamed-pork dumplings
video on how to eat Shanghai dumplings


fat Shanghai noodles at Shanghai Dumpling Shop in Millbrae, California
fat Shanghai noodles


rice roll at Shanghai Dumpling Shop in Millbrae, California
rice roll



Dim sum photo gallery.


A few doors down, Dean’s Produce (461 Broadway, (650) 692-1042.) displays colorful fruit and vegetables outside and offers plenty more inside along with exotic imported goods.  More shops line the street.

interior of Dean's Produce in Millbrae, California
interior of Dean's Produce in Millbrae, California

 
kiwi and bananas at Dean's Produce in Millbrae, California
kiwi and bananas at Dean's Produce in Millbrae, California


More things to do in Millbrae.

More ideas for exploring Northern California.

images ©2015 Carole Terwilliger Meyers 

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