Carmel: Outdoor Forest Theater; things to do

1 South

CARMEL THEATERS

●Outdoor Forest Theater  

Mountain View/Santa Rita.  PacRep Theatre:  (831) 622-0100, live performances Thur-Sun, Aug.-mid-Oct.  $8-$44; 65+ & under 12 reduced rate.  Forest Theatre Guild:  (831) 626-1681, live performances June–July.  $8-$38; 65+ & under 12 reduced rate.  Film series Tu & W June-July.  $5, under 6 free.  Reservations advised. 

The oldest outdoor theater west of the Rockies, the Outdoor Forest Theater opened in 1910.  Renovations were made by the WPA in the 1930s.  A small outdoor bowl is framed by towering pines and boasts ideal acoustics.  Seating is on long wood benches (bring a cushion), and two stone fireplaces on either side of the audience section are lit for evening performances and produce a warm and fragrant fire.  Dress warmly, come early, and bring a picnic dinner to enjoy under the stars.  If you walk, remember that this town has no streetlights.  You will need a good flashlight, though my iPhone worked fine. 

ticket window at Outdoor Forest Theater in Carmel, California

fireplace at Outdoor Forest Theater in Carmel, California

pre-performance at Outdoor Forest Theater in Carmel, California

pre-performance at Outdoor Forest Theater in Carmel, California

stage at Outdoor Forest Theater in Carmel, California

●Golden Bough Theatre  

Monte Verde St./8th Ave., (831) 622-0700, (831) 622-0100.  Performances Mar-Dec.  $7-$38. 

In a building reconstructed on the site of a playhouse that has burned to the ground twice (each time after performances of By Candlelight!), the ambitious Pacific Repertory Theatre company presents varied fare in the recently updated venue.  The 300-seat Golden Bough Theater is the main theater, and the 99-seat Circle Theatre located downstairs is the venue for intimate theater-in-the-round staging.


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images ©2018 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

The best Carmel beaches; things to do

1 South

The Best Carmel Beaches

Carmel Beach  

At foot of Ocean Ave., (831) 626-2522.  Free.  Dogs ok. 

Known for its white powdery sand and spectacular sunsets, this world-famous arc of a beach is a choice spot for a refreshing walk, a picnic, or flying a kite.  Swimming is unsafe.  New restrooms at Carmel Beach are award-winning and exceptional in design. 

The Great Sand Castle Contest is held here each September or October, depending on the tides.  This year it is scheduled for September 15, 2018.  Contestants are encouraged to bribe judges with food and drink.

Carmel River State Beach  

At end of Scenic Rd./Carmelo St., 1 mi. S of Ocean Ave., (831) 649-2836.  Daily 9-dusk.  Free. 

Very popular with families and divers, Carmel River State Beach features a fresh-water lagoon that is safe for wading and has an adjoining bird sanctuary.  It is located behind the Carmel Mission, where the Carmel River flows into Carmel Bay, and offers beautiful views of Point Lobos.  Locals refer to it as Oliver’s Cove; the southern end known as Monastery Beach is particularly gorgeous and has an entrance off Highway 1.  Swimming is dangerous.  Picnic facilities are available.


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video ©2018 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Carmel: Unique specialty shops; things to do

1 South

Carmel Specialty Shops

Carmel Bay Company  

Ocean Ave./Lincoln St., (831) 624-3868.  Daily 10-5. 

The Carmel Bay Company shop operates within the historic Seven Arts Building, which was built in the 1920s as an artist’s studio and then in the mid-1930s became Ed Weston’s photography studio.   It purveys “unusual, functional items for the home with honest, clean design.”  That includes fine housewares and accessories, lovely coffee table books, and the best souvenirs—old-time map-embossed dish towels, throw pillows, and drinking glasses. 

 

exterior of Carmel Bay Company shop in Carmel, California

  

Conway of Asia  

Dolores/7th Ave., (831) 624-3643. 

Oriental rugs, colorful Tibetan chests, and Buddhas galore are for sale in the tasteful, mysterious Conway of Asia shop.  The collection hails from India, Tibet, Burma, and Thailand and includes fine antiques. 

 

interior of Conway of Asia shop in Carmel, California

The Secret Garden  

Dolores St./5th Ave., (831) 624-4955.  Daily 11am-6pm. 

Tucked down a narrow brick walkway lined with bamboo, this serene mostly outdoor shop (part of it is in a 1970s geodesic dome) purveys a large selection of succulents and an eclectic collection of garden accents.  

 

passageway to The Secret Garden shop in Carmel, California

Pilgrim’s Way Books

Adjacent and under the same ownership, tiny Pilgrim's Way Books--the last bookstore in town--also  provides a good browse. 

 

entrance to Pilgrim's Way Books shop in Carmel, California

Thinker Toys  

7th Ave./San Carlos Ave., (831) 624-0441.  M-Sat 10-6, Sun 10-7. 

Thinker Toys offers an exciting selection of puppets, dolls, workbooks, and puzzles and is where to bring the kids to select a souvenir. 

 

interior of Thinker Toys shop in Carmel, California

 

The White Rabbit  

Ocean Avenue, in the Court of the Golden Bough, (831) 624-2556. 

Located not down a rabbit hole but instead up a narrow curving outdoor stairway, this sweet little find is tucked inside one of the town’s fairy tale buildings.  Featuring the world's largest variety of Alice in Wonderland collectibles, you’ll find everything from a garden statue to a backward-running clock among the offerings at the White Rabbit.

 

Court of the Golden Bough in Carmel, California

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images ©2018 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Carmel: The Tuck Box; restaurant review

1 South

The Tuck Box 

Dolores St./Ocean Ave., (831) 624-6365.  B-L daily; $.  No reservations.  No cards.   

Featuring fairy-tale architecture and verily reeking of quaintness, this tiny English-style tearoom can often be quite difficult to get seated in.  Additional seating is available on a tiny outdoor patio.  The breakfast menu at The Tuck Box offers egg items and hot oats as well as unusual and delicious spongy scones (they’re more like English muffins) with a choice of homemade olallieberry preserves or exceptional orange marmalade—all made in house.  At lunch, sandwiches, salads, and omelettes are available along with Welsh rarebit.  Afternoon tea service stops at 2:30 p.m. and is limited to scones and hot English tea. 

exterior of The Tuck Box restaurant in Carmel, California

interior of The Tuck Box restaurant in Carmel, California

scones and tea at The Tuck Box restaurant in Carmel, California

Picadilly Park

Across the street, tiny Picadilly Park, which is dominated by a California live oak tree, invites relaxing contemplation with its benches, flower garden, and water features.

Picadilly Park in Carmel, California

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images ©2018 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

1 South

Carmel's Historic Buildings

●Church of the Wayfarer  

Lincoln St./7th Ave., (831) 624-3550.  17 Service Sun at 10am. 

The oldest church in Carmel village, this United Methodist Church was founded in 1904.  The Church of the Wayfarer has a tall steeple and a functioning church bell and holds the peninsula’s finest pipe organ.  If you look closely at the stained glass windows, you can find a whale and some otters.  A Biblical garden has labeled plants.

 

exterior of Church of the Wayfarer in Carmel, California

interior of Church of the Wayfarer in Carmel, California

●City Hall  

Monte Verde St., between Ocean and 7th aves., 831-620-2000.  M-F 8am-5pm. 

This rustic City Hall building is probably most famous for once being known as “Clint’s Place.”  That was for the period of 1986 to 1988 when actor/director Clint Eastwood was city mayor.  His campaign was built on  "Bringing the Community Together," and people did enjoy having him in office.

 

exterior of City Hall in Carmel, California

●The First Murphy House 

SW Corner of Lincoln St. and 6th Ave., (831) 624-4447. 

This historic house was moved here from a few blocks away.  The First Murphy House was the first of more than 300 town structures built by M.J. Murphy.  Located at the edge of First Murphy Park, it features historic town exhibits and a growing research library.  Outside in front is an unusual weathered-wood milk shrine that was used until the 1950s.

exterior of The First Murphy House in Carmel, California

milk shrine at The First Murphy House in Carmel, California

●Harrison Memorial Library  

Ocean Ave./Lincoln St., (831) 624-7323.  M & Sat 1-5, Tu 11-8, W-Thur 11-6. 

Designed by Bernard Maybeck and built by M.J Murphy, this club-like library is considered the heart and soul of Carmel.  It has plenty of benches in its large front garden and is a great place to sit and read a book.  Free Wi-Fi and Internet work stations are available inside.

 

exterior of Harrison Memorial Library in Carmel, California

 
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images ©2018 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Carmel: Tradewinds Carmel; hotel review

1 South

Tradewinds Carmel  

Mission St./Third Ave., (800) 624-6665, (831) 624-2776.  28 rooms.  Some gas fireplaces.  Snack basket; continental breakfast.  Pets ok. 

Located in a quiet area just three blocks from town, the Asian-inspired Tradewinds Carmel boutique hotel has a central courtyard meditation garden featuring a large stone fire pit, a cascading fountain, and a life-size Buddha statue.  Throughout the hotel, ornately carved screens, Balinese fabrics and furnishings, and sleek contemporary accents create subdued surroundings.  Guests receive an orchid stem at the desk when they arrive, and cookies and cool water are provided in the lobby every afternoon.  Guest rooms are large and decorated with Asian prints, stalks of bamboo, and orchids, and they are stocked with soft rayon robes from Bali.  Bathrooms are nicely decorated and feature an earth-tone stone-tile floor, a spacious granite vanity, and either a soaking or jetted tub.  Some third-floor rooms have distant ocean views available from a balcony. 

registration office at Tradewinds Carmel in Carmel, California

zen decor in registration office at Tradewinds Carmel in Carmel, California

zen decor in courtyard at Tradewinds Carmel in Carmel, California

guest room bed at Tradewinds Carmel in Carmel, California

batik guest robes at Tradewinds Carmel in Carmel, California

bathroom vanity at Tradewinds Carmel in Carmel, California

view from third-floor guest room at Tradewinds Carmel in Carmel, California

breakfast buffet at Tradewinds Carmel in Carmel, California

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images ©2018 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Carmel: Point Lobos State Natural Reserve; things to do

1 South

Point Lobos State Natural Reserve  

3 mi. S of town off Hwy. 1, (831) 624-4909.  Hours vary, but usually 9am-5pm.  $10/vehicle.  No pets. 

Described by Robert Louis Stevenson as "the greatest meeting of land and water in the world," Point Lobos provides the opportunity to explore the rustic, undeveloped beauty of the Monterey Peninsula.  Flat-topped, gnarled-limbed Monterey cypress trees are native to just the 4-mile stretch between Point Lobos State Natural Reserve and Pebble Beach, and sea otters are often spotted in the 1,250-acre reserve's protected waters. 

Many trails are available—the self-guiding .08-mile Cypress Grove Trail loop is choice, but the .08-mile round trip Bird Island Trail through pine woods is also popular.  Guided ranger walks are scheduled daily in summer.  On my most recent visit, we hiked the 0.7 mile South Plateau Trail which begins at the entrance station and leads to Bird Island.  The trail is well described as “through pine and live oak woodland . . . somewhat hilly and has uneven surfaces.”  Be aware that trail signage is poor and very few maps are posted on site, so in advance of your visit take advantage of the printable brochures that include trail maps and animal descriptions. 

Dress warmly and in layers, and bring binoculars, a camera, and maybe a picnic, too.  Note that Pacific grey whales are seen from December through April, and also that this is considered the best spot on the peninsula for scuba diving. 

The Whalers Cabin and the Whaling Station Museum interpretive center is inside a restored whaler’s cabin built in 1851 by a Chinese fisherman.  Artifacts and photographs tell about the area’s history, and one display highlights the location’s various incarnations in movies.  Don’t miss the collection of etched abalone shells from the 1860s.  This venue offers a good orientation to the area and makes a choice first stop.

entrance station to Point Lobos State Natural Reserve in Carmel, California

trail through pine forest at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve in Carmel, California

view of Gibson Beach at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve in Carmel, California

Point Lobos State Natural Reserve in Carmel, California

pelican enjoys Point Lobos State Natural Reserve in Carmel, California

South Shore Trail at Point Lobos State Natural Reserve in Carmel, California

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images ©2018 Carole Terwilliger Meyers
updated 4-5-18

Carmel: Anton & Michel; restaurant review

1 South

Anton & Michel  

Mission St./Ocean Ave., (831) 624-2406.  L-D daily; $$$.  Reservations advised. 

Overlooking the Court of the Fountains, this sophisticated, soothing restaurant is welcoming, and original oil paintings adorn the walls.  In good weather, courtyard seating is available.  On a menu laden with the best of old-time classics, the specialty at Anton & Michel is items prepared tableside, including flambéed desserts--cherries jubilee, crepe suzette, and Bananas Foster.  We started our divine, flawless repast with a martini--heavy on the olives--and a grilled giant local artichoke with fried capers and garlic-mint aioli.  Our mains were deeply flavorful, long-braised Kobe beef short ribs with mashed potatoes and rack of lamb.  An extremely good 2014 Lucia Pinot Noir from nearby vineyards made the perfect companion.  More options not to overlook include French onion soup, pan-roasted chicken with root vegetables, and California red abalone.  Or you can pull out all the plugs and make your selection simple, yet still impress the surrounding tables, with the 3-course Classic Dinner for Two Prepared Tableside that includes Caesar salad, rack of lamb, and a flambéed dessert.  We ended our meal with cherries jubilee featuring delicious, very large, premium Bing cherries over vanilla ice cream.  As would be expected, service is top-notch.  The bar is a great choice for a smaller meal, and lunch features a selection of sandwiches and salads.

dining room at Anton & Michel in Carmel, California

Court of the Fountains in Carmel, California

martini at Anton & Michel in Carmel, California

grilled artichoke appetizer at Anton & Michel in Carmel, California

Kobe beef short rib at Anton & Michel in Carmel, California

rack of lamb at Anton & Michel in Carmel, California

flambee dessert cart at Anton & Michel in Carmel, California

Cherries Jubilee at Anton & Michel in Carmel, California

 
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images ©2018 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Carmel: Cultura; restaurant review

1 South

Cultura  

Dolores St./5th Ave., (831) 250-7005. 

Tucked down one of the town’s many passageways on Su Vecino Court, this new kid on the block specializes in Mexican cuisine served family style.  Situated inside what was previously a pub, Cultura inherited a cozy dark space and some comfy red booths.  Two fire pits offer more seating outside.  My drink choice was a Pina Aplastada/Pineapple Smash made with Mezcal.  In fact, if you want to learn more about Mezcal, this is the place--a vertical tasting is on the menu.  It has an extensive selection, and the servers are knowledgable.  Wines, beers, and Tequilas are also available. 

I especially liked the snacks and appetizer section of the menu, which features street foods.  Don’t miss the peanuts toasted with garlic and whole red chiles, or the vegetarian chicharrones, which are made with flour, crispy like shrimp crackers, and shaped like peace symbols but referred to as pinwheels.  If you’re feeling adventuresome, which I wasn’t, you can also sample some crunchy toasted chapulines (grasshoppers).  Street tacos featuring hand-made masa tortillas, guacamole served with dramatic big chips the size of half a tortilla, and street corn slathered with cheese and epazote are all don’t-misses.  If you’ve saved room for a main, your choices include a tender skirt steak with a delicious sauce, shredded smoked pork with the sweet house mole, and a roasted half chicken.  Note that the menu changes regularly.  For dessert, everyone gets a complimentary shot of hot chocolate in a tiny cup.  Very sweet indeed.  

interior of Cultura restaurant in Carmel, California

various Mexican street foods at Cultura restaurant in Carmel, California

enchiladas at Cultura restaurant in Carmel, California

vegetable bowl at Cultura restaurant in Carmel, California

petite hot chocolate at Cultura restaurant in Carmel, California

firepit tables at Cultura restaurant in Carmel, California

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images ©2018 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Carmel: The Hideaway; hotel review

1 South

The Hideaway  

Junipero St./8th Ave., 2 blks. from downtown, (831) 625-5222.  24 rooms; 2 stories.  Some gas fireplaces and kitchens.  Afternoon snack; buffet breakfast.  Pets ok.  No onsite parking; plenty of free street parking. 

Built motel-style around a central courtyard with fire pit, The Hideaway makes good use of lovely river stones from the Carmel River.  Hot and cold drinks are available in the lobby from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., and in the afternoon, wine and small snacks are provided for a guest gathering.  The European-style breakfast buffet can be enjoyed inside, or out on the often-sunny central patio.  Cruiser bikes are available for use at no charge. 

Rooms are decorated in a sleek contemporary style in neutral tones.  All but two rooms have king beds (the other two are queens).  Some rooms have a microfiber couch that folds out to a queen-size bed.  Three rooms have a standard bathtub.  Toiletries are in large unbranded bottles and to be used on site only, but a small and fragrant slice of lavender hand soap is provided.  In this U-shaped building, all guest rooms face the common courtyard; corner room 17 is particularly spacious and includes a view of the far-off ocean.  

courtyard at The Hideaway in Carmel, California

guest room bed at The Hideaway in Carmel, California

guest room bathroom at The Hideaway in Carmel, California

guest room sitting area at The Hideaway in Carmel, California

breakfast at The Hideaway in Carmel, California

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images ©2018 Carole Terwilliger Meyers