Healdsburg: Downtown Bakery and Creamery; restaurant review

101 North

Downtown Bakery and Creamery  

308-A Center St., (707) 431-2719.  Tu-Sun 7-3.  No cards.  

ice cream counter at Downtown Bakery and Creamery
in Healdsburg, California

Co-owner Lindsey Shere did time in the kitchen at Berkeley's renowned Chez Panisse.  She also wrote the best-selling cookbook Chez Panisse Desserts.  So the exceptional hand-shaped, slow-rise breads and the pastries and ice creams produced in her kitchen here at Downtown Bakery and Creamery are not a complete surprise.  When available, the focaccia, sticky buns (best heated), donut muffins, and fruit turnovers are a must.  On warm Wine Country days, it is a refreshing pleasure to indulge in one of the shop's old-fashioned milkshakes or sundaes, and it’s always a good idea to purchase frozen cookie dough to bake at home.  Organically grown, freshly milled flours are used, and produce and dairy products are organic and locally produced whenever possible.  Simple lunch items including sandwiches and pizza are available, and indoor seating is provided at copper-topped tables.  

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images ©2021 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Healdsburg: Healdsburg Veterans Memorial Beach; things to do

101 North

Healdsburg Veterans Memorial Beach  

13839 Old Redwood Hwy., (707) 433-1625.  Daily sunrise-sunset; swimming June-Sept only.  $7/vehicle.

on the beach at Healdsburg Veterans Memorial Beach in Healdsburg, California

Healdsburg Veterans Memorial Beach is a choice spot to swim in the warm Russian River, which in summer has an average water temperature of 70 to 75 degrees.  A lifeguard is on duty from 10 a.m., and canoe and inner tube rentals are available.  Facilities include a diving board, a children's wading area, a picnic area with barbecues, and a snack bar.  Sunbathers have a choice of a large sandy beach or a shady lawn area.  The swim area is reached via a steep incline to the water.

river beach at Healdsburg Veterans Memorial Beach in Healdsburg, California

grassy area at Healdsburg Veterans Memorial Beach in Healdsburg, California

barbecue area at Healdsburg Veterans Memorial Beach in Healdsburg, California

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images ©2020 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Healdsburg: The Hand Fan Museum; things to do

101 North

The Hand Fan Museum  

309 Healdsburg Ave., in Hotel Healdsburg complex, (707) 431-2500.  W-Sat 11-4.  Free.

dress made of hand fans at The Hand Fan Museum in Healdsburg, California

The Hand Fan Museum is the first museum in the U.S. dedicated to hand fans, this teeny, tiny spot has a permanent collection of almost 3,000 fans from around the world.  The oldest is French and dates from 1680.  Unlike the fixed fan, which seems to have been around forever, the folding fan was invented in Japan in the 6th century.  Legend has it that a Buddhist monk developed it after observing a bird’s wing action on a hot day.  More than 75 fans are displayed in this happy place, and both antique and new fans are for sale. 

fans displayed at The Hand Fan Museum in Healdsburg, California

curator points at fans displayed at The Hand Fan Museum
in Healdsburg, California

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images ©2020 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Healdsburg: Best Western Dry Creek Inn; hotel review

101 North

Best Western Dry Creek Inn  

198 Dry Creek Rd., 1 mi. from plaza, (800) 222-5784, (707) 433-0300.  102 rooms; $$.  Some gas fireplaces.  Heated pool (seasonal); 2 hot tubs; fitness room; sauna & steam room.  Full breakfast; restaurant.  Pets ok. 

exterior of Best Western Dry Creek Inn in Healdsburg, California

Located off the main drag, this attractive contemporary motel is popular with families.  Some rooms in the luxurious new Tuscan-style courtyard building have a piazza view and boast a granite top double sink, gas fireplace, and private balcony or patio.  Best Western Dry Creek Inn facilities include a business center, guest laundry room, and outdoor courtyard seating with fireplace.  The extensive full-buffet breakfast is served in a large room with several adjacent outdoor seating areas.  It features waffles, eggs and bacon, local pastries from Costeaux bakery, delish bagels from local Healdsburg Bagel Company, and local coffee from Flying Goat. 

guest room at Best Western Dry Creek Inn in Healdsburg, California

hot tub at Best Western Dry Creek Inn in Healdsburg, California

breakfast room at Best Western Dry Creek Inn in Healdsburg, California

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images © 2019 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Guerneville: Wine tasting along Westside Road in the Russian River Valley; things to do

101 North

Wine tasting along Westside Road in the Russian River Valley

The Russian River Valley AVA is known for producing great Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.  You can hop along Westside Road, a back road that begins in Forestville just off River Road and runs into Healdsburg.  It permits tasting at a variety of small wineries that still express great passion for their profession.  And though they are set along the Russian River, they don’t rush things here.  

●Jersey Tom Wine Country Tours  

(775) 901-0508.  

Tom can arrange the perfect wine tasting tour for you.  He provides background during the ride, then waits in his van as the designated driver for you and your group.  

Thomas George Estates  

8075 Westside Rd., in Healdsburg, (707) 431-8031.  Tasting $50+.  

tasting room at Thomas George Estates in Healdsburg, California

Originally owned in the 1970s by area wine pioneer and legend Davis Bynum, the winery was taken over in 2008 by Thomas George Estates.  Bynum converted a 1920s hop kiln into the current modern winery building.  The basic Reserve Tasting takes place in a cave and includes five single-vineyard estate wines paired with food.  A special Wine Safari tour ($175/person) includes a bottle of wine and a ride up to the Baker Ridge Vineyard for a picnic with a view.  My favorites here are a light, summery 2015 Chardonnay Baker Ridge Estate Single Vineyard ($45) and a small production 2015 Pinot Noir Baker Ridge Estate Single Vineyard Backbone Block ($85).  Renovated 1920s houses on the property have been converted into guest rental accommodations.  

cave entrance at Thomas George Estates in Healdsburg, California

vineyards at Thomas George Estates in Healdsburg, California

al fresco tasting at Thomas George Estates in Healdsburg, California

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery  

10701 Westside Rd., in Healdsburg, (707) 473-2900. Tasting $35+; reservations required.  

tasting set up at Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg, California

A pioneer in this valley, the Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery began production in 1982.  The current winery was built in 2000.  Perched atop a knoll, the tasting room has a lovely forest view and an assortment of areas to relax and enjoy the wines, including an outside deck.  Many of the wines are limited production.  The guided Elevation Tasting samples four wines paired with artisan cheeses.  Another tasting includes five wines matched with cheeses as well as a tour, and yet another tasting zeros in on six Pinot Noirs paired with small bites.  My favorites here are the fresh, citrusy 2015 Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay ($60) and the delicious 2015 Rochioli-Allen Vineyards Pinot Noir ($80).  

tasting set up at Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery in Healdsburg, California

blogger Carole Terwilliger Meyers tasting at Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery
in Healdsburg, California

Moshin Vineyards  

10295 Westside Rd., in Healdsburg, (707) 433-5499.  Tasting $20, waived with wine purchase. 

tasting counter at Moshin Vineyards in Healdsburg, California

I am told that the winemaker here at Moshin Vineyards “is quite simply obsessed with grapes.  He gets dazzled by them.”  So with a gravity-flow winery built on four levels, he bends to the wishes of his Pinot Noir grapes that they not be overworked here and gravity pushes production.  Two Pinots I tried were particularly delicious:  a 2014 Calliope Vineyard, Russian River was a tasty stew of fruits and spices; and a 2014 Whole Cluster, Sonoma County was so delicious I exclaimed, “Oh!” on my first sip.  A 2012 Zinfandel, Carreras, Vineyard, Dry Creek was also very good and is reputed to stand up well to a burger.  The tasting room is cozy, decorated with art, and seems to have a sub-theme of hummingbirds.  It also has a very big fake toad that made me jump when someone unexpectedly set it down beside me.  

2014 Pinot Noir at Moshin Vineyards in Healdsburg, California

fake toad at Moshin Vineyards in Healdsburg, California

Porter Creek Vineyards  

8735 Westside Rd., in Healdsburg, (707) 433-6321.  Tasting daily 10:30am-4:30pm. 

tasting at Porter Creek Vineyards in Healdsburg, California

The focus at Porter Creek Vineyards is on organic, single-vineyard designate wines, and grape varietals from Burgundy and Rhone.  Located at the southern end of Westside Road, with a view of the Russian River and redwood groves, the simple tasting room is inside a  historic structure built with handmade redwood beams and decorated with local art.  

Introduction to Russian River Region.

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images ©2019 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Healdsburg: Costeaux French Bakery & Cafe; restaurant review

101 North 

Costeaux French Bakery & Cafe  

417 Healdsburg Ave., (888) 355-0217, (707) 433-1913.  B-L Tu-Sun; $.  No reservations.

interior of Costeaux French Bakery & Cafe in Healdsburg, California

Family-owned and -operated since 1923, the Costeaux French Bakery & Cafe is choice for picking up picnic supplies or a pre-ordered ribbon-tied box lunch.  Sit-down service includes sandwiches on housemade breads, delicious French onion soup, and selections from the awe-inspiring pastry case:  cheesecake, cookies, fresh fruit tart, French pastries.  The bakery is famous for its round sourdough pull-a-part bread--its country French bread is also very good--and once baked the world’s largest pumpkin pie in its oven.  Breakfast is served all day and includes fresh-squeezed OJ and thick French toast made with the housemade cinnamon-walnut bread.  Seating is either in the airy, high-ceilinged interior or outside on a pleasant sidewalk-side enclosed patio. 

 

cakes at Costeaux French Bakery & Cafe in Healdsburg, California

 
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images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Healdsburg: Shops; things to do

101 North

●Lulo  

303 Center St., on plaza, (707) 433-7533.

Contemporary art and jewelry are sparsely displayed in Lulo so that they really pop out at you.

Lulo shop in Healdsburg, California

●One World Fair Trade  

104 Matheson St., on plaza, (707) 473-0880.  

Everything stocked in the One World Fair Trade gift shop is purchased through fair trade organizations that provide reasonable wages and living conditions to workers and artisans.  You’ll feel good about your choices. 

One World Fair Trade shop in Healdsburg, California

●Antique Harvest  

225 Healdsburg Ave., near plaza, (707) 433-0223.

More than 20 dealers display their wares in a warren of spaces at Antique Harvest.  I like this shop in particular because the selection is vast and the prices are good.

Antique Harvest shop in Healdsburg, California

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images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Healdsburg: h2Hotel + Spoonbar; hotel review + restaurant review

101 North

h2Hotel

219 Healdsburg Ave./Mill St., (707) 431-2202.  36 rooms.  Full breakfast.  Free parking, valet $15.  Pool.  Breakfast; restaurant; room service.  Pets ok. 

The new LEED Gold-certified “eco chic” h2Hotel, built in 2010, is located just a half block from the plaza.  A lobby fireplace made from salvaged Steinway piano cords sets the tone along with a staircase made with sustainably grown urban forest stewardship wood.  Each room has a deck or patio, naturally-striped bamboo floors, funky Peace Industry rugs, local art,  a Serta mattresses with luxurious Coyuchi brand white organic cotton linens and robes, a built-in desk with an ergonomic chair, a seating area, and a 27-inch flat-screen TV.  Guests fill provided water canisters at a central water source on each floor known as the Water Tap Bar and can choose sparkling or flat, cold or room temperature.  Suites have a convertible sofa bed, which makes it easy to accommodate children, and also a deep Japanese-style soaking tubs for two.  A solar-heated saltwater pool is positioned just off the lobby beside Foss Creek.  Loaner bikes are available, and a complimentary Ashtanga yoga class is scheduled on weekend mornings.  Also, complete spa services are available a block away at sister hotel Hotel Healdsburg.

Thai beet boudins at Spoonbar in Healdsburg, California

Spoonbar

The hotel’s restaurant and bar—Spoonbar has a wall of large glass doors that are opened to the sidewalk in good weather (L Sat-Sun, D daily; bar nightly.)  Reclaimed elm planks serve as dining tables.  The complimentary full breakfast is served here and includes juices, fresh fruit, house-made baked goods, cereal, egg dishes, and local Flying Goat coffee and tea.  The bar is well known for its trendy and unique cocktail concoctions, and for tasty appetizers such as crispy Thai beet boudins and also chicken wings glazed with aleppo pepper and green papaya ribbons.

blood orange margarita at Spoonbar in Healdsburg, California

A blood orange margarita made with Frida Kahlo Blanco tequila and topped with petals from a yellow, daisy-like calendula flower is primo, and the bartenders are as cool as their drinks.



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images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Healdsburg: Grape Leaf Inn; hotel review

101 North

Grape Leaf Inn  

539 Johnson St., 4 blks. from plaza, (707) 433-8140.  12 rooms.  Some fireplaces.  Afternoon cookies & wine tasting; full breakfast. 

Located in a residential area, this rare 1900 three-dormer Queen Anne mansion that is the Grape Leaf Inn is surrounded by gardens.

guest room at Grape Leaf Inn in Healdsburg, California

Freshly baked cookies are usually available.  Wine tasting featuring the inn owners’ boutique wineries occurs with cheese and chocolates in a subterranean bar whose entrance is hidden behind a bookcase, and guests are welcomed during their stay to complimentary tastings at the inn owner’s nearby wineries.  Bikes are available for loan.  Guest rooms are spacious, and each is uniquely decorated and named for a grape varietal.  Some rooms have whirlpool tubs for two, and one has a steam shower and deep Japanese-style soaking tub.  Four rooms are tucked romantically under the eaves of the steeply pitched roof featuring 17 skylights with views of trees and stars.  A beautiful array of wallpapers is enhanced by an eclectic collection of antique furnishings, oriental rugs, and high-quality linens and towels.  Puffy white comforters top the beds.  Amenities include fresh flowers and a turndown chocolate.

breakfast at Grape Leaf Inn in Healdsburg, California

Breakfast is served in the formal dining room.  Ours included an appetizer raspberry shooter with prosciutto-wrapped melon spheres, plus a main course of saffron-sausage risotto topped with a poached egg, a rosemary-marmalade scone, and freshly sliced tomatoes garnished with a rosemary sprig. 

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images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

Healdsburg: Café Lucia; restaurant review

101 North

Café Lucia  

235 Healdsburg Ave, (707) 431-1113.  L-D daily; $$$. 

appetizer tray at Café Lucia in Healdsburg, California

In a contemporary space set down a long outdoor hall away from the street, Café Lucia presents delicious Portuguese Mediterranean cuisine enhanced by local and seasonal California ingredients.  The contemporary decor includes striking large canvas prints of landscapes and scenery from Portugal and the Azores.  Wood tables are made from old wine crates, and banquettes soften the seating.  A large open courtyard is divine in good weather.  Because we weren’t super hungry, my husband and I composed a delicious meal from tasting plates and starters.  Our small plates included boquerones (white anchovies), Tremoco-Lupini beans, and marinated vegetables.  Fig bread and almonds were included gratis, and all was served on an attractive plank.  

dayboat scallops at Café Lucia in Healdsburg, California

We also shared perfect day boat scallops and a dramatic asparagus salad topped with a fried egg.  Main dishes included a fisherman’s stew, a traditional baked casserole of north Atlantic salt cod, and a New York steak.  I liked that we could order wine by the half glass so we could sample more vintages, and the waitress made excellent suggestions.  With our fruit trio dessert (passion fruit mousse, fig bread pudding, and frozen pineapple mousse), we shared a delicious Barros sweet white.  Portions are on the small side, and prices are on the high side, but the entire package is so satisfying that it is money well spent.

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images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers