Dopo 4293 Piedmont Ave./John St., (510) 652-3676. L M-F (11:30-2:30), D M-Sat; $$. Reservations for 5+. The sophisticated Italian cooking here makes the usual prime-time wait worthwhile. Soups can be interesting—perhaps a deep-flavored lentil with chanterelle mushrooms—and the thin-crust pizza is reliably tasty. The ever-changing menu has offered crostone of pork, lasagna, and a memorable crab tortellini. For dessert, don’t pass up buttermilk panna cotta. Lunch is less crowded, and panini are available.
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