80 North: Berkeley, Kabana Restaurant

Kabana Restaurant 1106 University Ave./San Pablo Ave., (510) 845-3355. L-D daily; $. No reservations. Though cramped and lacking atmosphere, this spot turns out delicious Pakistani dishes that make these drawbacks seem minor. Especially delicious items include the don’t-miss house specialty--spicy tandoori fish—as well as aloo begun (potatoes and eggplant) and crispy garlic nan.

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image c2012 Carole Terwilliger Meyers