B&B Kitchen & Wine Bar

CLOSED 2116 Shattuck Ave./Center St., downtown, (510) 647-9329. L-M-F, Sat-SunBr, D daily; $$$.

Recently opened in a narrow deep space in the heart of downtown, this upscale venue offers several atmospheres: a covered, recessed open-air patio in front;

exterior & patio of B&B Kitchen & Wine Bar in Berkeley, California

a small space just inside featuring a polished granite-top bar with stools and a few tables;

bar at B&B Kitchen & Wine Bar in Berkeley, California

and, in back, past the exhibition kitchen,

kitchen at B&B Kitchen & Wine Bar in Berkeley, California

a painted-black womb of a room outfitted with handmade smooth pale-wood tables, comfy booths, and two silent TV screens tuned to sports.

back dining room at B&B Kitchen & Wine Bar in Berkeley, California

Operated by the same owner as Oakland’s Bourbon & Beef in Rockridge, B&B Kitchen & Wine Bar similarly sets the standard for farm-to-table menu items that change regularly, according to availability. From the selection of contemporary American fare, we selected a pleasant bitter chicory salad topped with a poached egg to start.

chicory at B&B Kitchen & Wine Bar in Berkeley, California

Grilled octopus salad and charred Brussels sprouts were among other intriguing choices. For entrees, crispy organic fried chicken is a clear star. It arrives piled high on the plate with sides of tasty collard greens and a lavender honey dipping sauce.

fried chicken at B&B Kitchen & Wine Bar in Berkeley, California

Though good, my lamb sugo on pappardelle with flavor-adding fresh parsley paled in comparison (I had planned to order butter-poached lobster pasta but it had been dropped from the menu). Other items I would like to try include Coffee-Braised Beef Short Ribs and Truffle Mac & Cheese. A burger, New York steak, and fresh fish were also on the menu.

lamb sugo pappardelle at B&B Kitchen & Wine Bar in Berkeley, California

I was disappointed at dessert to find out that the trio of seasonal berry sorbets, which was on the menu and a chef’s specialty, was not available. We soldiered on and ordered instead a coconutty panna cotta with strawberry puree. It was a generous serving and particularly nice with a glass of port. The beverage list includes craft beers and plenty of wines available by both the bottle and the glass. As is becoming more common now in restaurants, no bread is offered or available on the menu as a side, and it was missed.