July 15, 2016

Oakland: Hutch Bar & Kitchen; restaurant review

880 South

Hutch Bar & Kitchen  

2022 Telegraph Ave./20th St., Uptown, (510) 419-0622.  D Tu-Sat.  

exterior of Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California
exterior of Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California


Situated in an open space holding a zinc-topped bar with two TVs that is a magnet for solo diners, this cheery, friendly place features mellow music and invites lingering over one of the drink specialties.

interior of Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California
interior of Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California


At Hutch Bar & Kitchen you can choose from more than 100 American whiskeys, but perhaps the most fun way to go is with a flight.  We chose to share “The other states” flight and sampled a Balcones single malt from Texas, a James Oliver whiskey from Oregon, and a Hudson baby bourbon from New York.  Our clear favorite was the Balcones, which we could feel warming us up all the way down.

flight of whiskeys at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California
flight of whiskeys at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California


The wine and beer list is California-focused, and cocktails are also available.  With my dinner I drank an unusual, not-too-sweet Sunny Mai Tai, which was light in color but not in wallop.  My dining partner chose a New Two Jacks Sazerac (with St. George absinthe).

cocktails at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California
cocktails at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California


The decor includes some reclaimed wood highlights, including a redwood ceiling (from the 1930s), table tops made from 1950s walnut veneer, and a community table made of old growth pine.  I was wowed by the two locally crafted, 6-foot-diameter metal chandelier circles wired with filament lights, and also by the huge, dramatic multi-panel photographs depicting the Hernando de Soto Bridge in Memphis and the original Bay Bridge.  For starters, we chose crispy jalapeno hushpuppies served with a tasty remoulade dipping sauce, and the unusual bourbon-cured trout-fennel salad (the algae-fed trout is dry-cured two days, then soaked in bourbon for a day).

hushpuppies and bourbon-cured trout at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California
hushpuppies and bourbon-cured trout at Hutch Bar & Kitchen
in Oakland, California


I unwrapped my dish-towel napkin and prepared for deep-fried chicken (an entire half  that was crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside) served with a delicious Sherry-herb gravy over rice and bacon-braised collard greens.

deep-fried chicken at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California
deep-fried chicken at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California


My dining partner had flavorful crispy-fried catfish with corn succotash.  Portions were so generous that we took home leftovers that were enough for dinner the next night.

fried catfish at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California
fried catfish at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California


More entrees include bacon-wrapped meatloaf with mashed potatoes and a hunter’s gumbo made with trout, wild boar, rabbit, and smoked turkey.  Available as a side, the restaurant's signature stone-ground grits from Mississippi are served creamy, thick, and very cheesy, but you can also get them as a bar snack in cheddar-grit croquettes.  We did manage to share banana-bourbon bread pudding made with crispy squares of bread and served with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce, but we simply couldn’t finish it.  Affogato is another option.

banana-bourbon bread pudding at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California
banana-bourbon bread pudding at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California


Chef King combines traditional family recipes with Californian ingredients.  He is marking the restaurant’s third-year anniversary by offering, through the end of July, 2016, a value-priced, three-course prix fixe dinner menu showcasing some of the restaurant's classic dishes; it includes a complimentary glass of wine.

bar manager LaMont Reed with owner David King at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California
bar manager LaMont Reed with owner David King at Hutch Bar & Kitchen
in Oakland, California


Hutch is named after chef/owner David King's grandfather, who is honored in a colorful watercolor portrait by the entrance.  

watercolor portrait of Hutch at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California
watercolor portrait of Hutch at Hutch Bar & Kitchen in Oakland, California




Way more things to do in Oakland.

More ideas for exploring Northern California. 


images ©2016 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

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