Pollara Pizzeria

CLOSED 1788 Fourth St., (510) 529-4548. Daily 11:30am-7pm.

counter at Pollara Pizzeria in Berkeley, California

This spacious shop makes rectangular pizza slices just like those found on the streets of Rome. The cold-fermented dough rises in a refrigerator, making for a less dense, airy dough. In Rome, customers use their hands to indicate the portion size desired, and there they are charged by the weight. Here, the server selects a pre-sliced rectangle for you (cut traditionally with scissors), and the price is by the piece. Toppings include salumi--smoked pancetta, prosciutto, and spicy salami--and cheeses--buffalo mozzarella, mascarpone, and stracciatella--and seasonal vegetables. Ten different pizza varieties are available every day, including several vegan and a kids cheese version--think Mozzarella and tomato sauce. Choose a basic Margherita with mozzarella and basil, or an earthy mushroom, or maybe a Diavola, with slices of hot salami atop creamy melted mozzarella.

counter at Pollara Pizzeria in Berkeley, California

Service is deli-style--you check out the offerings set behind glass at the counter and then order. Slices are. After you select, the pizza is cooked quickly in a special oven, or can be taken home to heat and eat later. Perhaps the best option is to select a few slices to eat heated on the spot--either inside or outside on the inviting front patio--and to also order a complete pie to take home and heat up later for dinner. A quarter pie (one slice) will satisfy one person, a half (or two slices) will take care of two people, and a whole pie (four slices) is good for four people. Antipasti include fried snacks such as supplì classico (Roman-style arancini made with rice, tomato, and mozzarella) and crocchetta balls (made with mashed potatoes, mozzarella, salami, pecorino, and grana). Salads and sandwiches are also available.