Chow 215 Church St./Market St., Castro District, 4 blks. from Castro St., (415) 552-2469. B-L-D daily, Sat-SunBr; $. No reservations. Italian and American selections dominate the menu in this comfortable spot. Best bets include spaghetti and meatballs, hamburgers made with meat from grass-fed cows, pizza, grilled chicken, and tender short ribs with garlic mashed potatoes. For dessert, it’s warm gingerbread with pumpkin ice cream, housemade pie (butterscotch-banana and pecan are primo), and fruit crisp.
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