Brannan’s Grill 1374 Lincoln St./Washington St., (707) 942-2233. L-D daily; $$-$$$. Reservations advised.
It is a delight sitting here in one of the oversize booths in the large, open interior dining room outfitted with high rafters and a cozy fireplace for cool weather. The sidewalk-view booths, which have windows that change to screens in warm weather, are also choice. The hearty meat-and-potatoes menu is includes braised short ribs—you can’t go wrong with these--but fish, pasta, and sandwiches are also options. For a perfect ending, consider a flight of dessert wines, but keep in mind that the kitchen is famous for its chocolate lava cake.
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