Bacar 448 Brannan St./3rd St., South of Market, (415) 904-4100. D M-Sat, SunBr; $$$-$$$+. Reservations advised.
Diners entering this subdued, sophisticated retreat pass a dramatic 3-story “wall of wine” holding 1,000 bottles. Wines are sophisticated and pricey. Meats are particularly good, and sometimes the special is a 32-ounce steak--recently at $99--that is best shared by three or four diners. For desert, the coconut rice pudding is a winner.
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