October 31, 2014

Grass Valley: The Holbrooke; hotel review

Highway 49--Gold Rush Country 

The Holbrooke  

212 W. Main St., in historic downtown, (800) 933-7077, (530) 273-1353.  28 rooms; $$-$$$.  Some gas fireplaces.  Continental breakfast; restaurant.

exterior ofThe Holbrooke hotel in Grass Valley, California
exterior ofThe Holbrooke hotel in Grass Valley, California


Established in 1851 and located conveniently in the center of town, this meticulously restored Victorian grand hotel has hosted four presidents (Grant, Garfield, Cleveland, and Harrison), stagecoach robber Black Bart, and author Mark Twain.

Ulysses S. Grant Room at The Holbrooke hotel in Grass Valley, California
Ulysses S. Grant Room at The Holbrooke hotel in Grass Valley, California


At The Holbrooke guests can step back in time in rooms named for the presidents, and room #18, the Ulysses S. Grant Room--which features a red-brick wall plus some wallpapered walls, high ceilings, a brass bed, a big bathroom with the room’s original clawfoot tub, and a balcony that is perfect for watching a parade--is reputedly haunted.  Most rooms are for two people, but a few larger ones can also accommodate a child on a rollaway bed.  A century-old wrought-iron elevator cage lifts guests from floor to floor.  Located behind the hotel, the 1874 Purcell House offers additional rooms.

The Golden Gate Saloon features an ornate bar that was shipped around the Horn.  The oldest continually operating saloon west of the Mississippi, it has a patio and serves food.  The elegant Restaurant has full family amenities.  Both operate on the main floor.  The original subterranean stonewalled saloon, which once was the end point of several mine tunnels, is also said to be haunted.  It is now used only for special events.  A popular destination for miners because the hotel also had a Gold Exchange, the hotel drew miners from the Empire Mine, which is 2½ miles away.

mine tunnel doors in women's restroom at The Holbrooke hotel in Grass Valley, California
mine tunnel doors in women's restroom at The Holbrooke hotel
in Grass Valley, California


They would walk here through the tunnels and then hitch their mules in the tunnel while they came in for a drink, entering through iron doors that are now part of the women’s restroom. 


More things to do in Grass Valley.

More things to do in Gold Rush Country.

More loos with views.

More ideas for exploring Northern California.

images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

October 29, 2014

Grass Valley: Empire Mine State Historic Park; things to do

Highway 49--Gold Rush Country 

Empire Mine State Historic Park  

10791 E. Empire St., (530) 273-8522.  Daily 10-5.  $7, 6-16 $3; cottage living history $2 age 6+; tours free, schedule varies. 

Once the largest and richest hard rock mine in the state, the Empire Mine operated for more than a century--from 1850 to 1956.  Though it still holds millions of dollars’ worth of gold, the ore is too expensive to extract.  The mine is now the peaceful 805-acre Empire Mine State Historic Park, with grassy expanses and tall pines.  The Gold Rush started here in 1850 with a stubbed toe in what is now the parking lot.

headframe at Empire Mine State Historic Park in Grass Valley, California
headframe at Empire Mine State Historic Park in Grass Valley, California


The mineyard illustrates many facets of the business and allows visitors to look deep down into a lighted mine shaft.  Nearby in the mineyard office, a scale model shows the underground presence of this and other mines in the town (it is amazing to see all the tunnels and shafts). 

prairie diamond ring at Empire Mine State Historic Park in Grass Valley, California
prairie diamond ring at Empire Mine State Historic Park in Grass Valley, California


And don’t miss a visit to the blacksmith. I got myself a prairie diamond ring made from a nail, which I am wearing to replace my own missing wedding ring (you can buy these in the gift shop for $1, as well as a vial heavy with gold leaf for $8.50).  Among approximately 12 miles of hiking trails are self-guided backcountry paths and an easy 2-mile loop Hardrock Trail.  Picnicking is not permitted. 

exterior of Bourn Cottage at Empire Mine State Historic Park in Grass Valley, California
exterior of Bourn Cottage at Empire Mine State Historic Park
in Grass Valley, California


The stone Bourn Cottage (also known as the Empire Cottage), was designed and built in 1897 as a summer home for William Bowers Bourn II and his wife Agnes by his hunting buddy, Willis Polk.  It is in the style of an English country manor and features hand-planed heart-redwood walls.  The surrounding 13 acres of formal gardens include an antique rose garden planted in 1905, several fountains, and a reflecting pool.

Living History character at Empire Mine State Historic Park in Grass Valley, California
Living History character at Empire Mine State Historic Park
in Grass Valley, California


On Living History days, many of the characters mentioned above come to life, and since this cottage was a showcase of technology you might even see a demonstration of the magic of electricity. 

fresh roses in Bourn Cottage dining room at Empire Mine State Historic Park in Grass Valley, California
fresh roses in Bourn Cottage dining room at Empire Mine State Historic Park
in Grass


Springtime at Empire Mine is held each Mother’s Day, when the gardens are at their blooming best, and includes Living History programs.


More things to do in Grass Valley.

More things to do in Gold Rush Country.

More ideas for exploring Northern California.

images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers


October 27, 2014

Introduction to Grass Valley

Highway 49--Gold Rush Country 


Introduction to Grass Valley

A Little Background

It was here in Grass Valley, in what was once the richest gold-bearing region in the state, that gold mining became a well-organized industry.  Hard-rock mining began in 1850 and since then more gold was taken out in Nevada County than ever was mined in the entire rest of the world!  Many advanced mining techniques were developed and first used here. 

Visitor Information

Greater Grass Valley Chamber of Commerce  

128 E. Main St., (800) 655-4667, (530) 273-4667.  M-F 9-5, Sat 10-3. 

As is true in most Gold Rush towns, there are plenty of
antiques shops:

footed dish in antiques store in Grass Valley, California
footed dish in antiques store in Grass Valley, California


Antique Gallery  

202 W. Main St., (530) 272-2327. 

The small, clean Antique Gallery shop features a stone wall and a nicely curated collection.  It specializes in lighting, pottery, and tin toys. 
 
interior of Antique Gallery in Grass Valley, California
interior of Antique Gallery in Grass Valley, California


Antique Palace  

138 E. Main St., (530) 273-8043.  Daily 10-5. 

The sprawling Antique Palace has a mish-mash of vintage goods.

colorful glass items at the Antique Palace in Grass Valley, California
colorful glass items at the Antique Palace in Grass Valley, California


The Clocksmith  

217 W. Main St. 

The small Clocksmith shop has original brick walls and a nice selection of clocks and silver mixed with some contemporary items. 

Grass Valley Antique Emporium  

150 Mill St., (530) 272-7302. 

The medium-size Grass Valley Antique Emporium is worth a browse.  


More things to do in Grass Valley.

More things to do in Gold Rush Country.

More ideas for exploring Northern California.

images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

October 24, 2014

Mill Valley: Shops; things to do

101 North

Mill Valley shops


Both of these shops are within an small indoor shopping area at 31 Sunnyside Avenue.

Weathered Nest shop in Mill Valley, California
Weathered Nest shop in Mill Valley, California

Weathered Nest  

#3, (415) 226-8336. 

This sweet little gift shop purveys antiques, tarted-up furniture, and accessories—think fragrant sachets, useful magnifying glasses, and maybe a vintage bird cage.  Weathered Nest is a pleasure to browse, and I’ll be back for Christmas shopping. 
 


Village Music shop in Mill Valley, California
Village Music shop in Mill Valley, California

Village Music  

#5  (415) 388-7400.  Sat 12-5 & by appt. 

Some call Village Music the best record store in the world.  Record is the operative word, as there are no CDs here.  Only things made from vinyl.  You’ll find more than 500,000 78s, 45s, and 33 1/3s.  Music royalty have mad the trek:  Mick Jagger came in one day, followed by John Lee Hooker several days later.  The owner now operates the tiny space as a hobby, and so has cut way back on hours. 


More things to do in Mill Valley.

Even more things to do in Mill Valley.

More top hikes from around the world.

An overnight escape to Mt. Tam.

More ideas for exploring Northern California.
 
images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

October 22, 2014

Berkeley: Great China; restaurant review

80 North

Great China  

2190 Bancroft Way/Oxford St., downtown, (510) 843-7996.  No reservations.  L-D W-M; $$.

dining room at Great China restaurant in Berkeley, California
dining room at Great China restaurant in Berkeley, California


Great China has moved a block from its former small space that burned to the ground in 2012 and has morphed into a large, sleek open room with industrial-style decor featuring concrete and reclaimed wood.  Specializing in authentic Chinese cooking with an emphasis on Shandong cuisine, it remains as popular as ever.  To avoid a long wait, we sat at the counter/bar.  In conversation, two Chinese ladies sitting next to us revealed to us that in their plastic bag were the bones from their Peking duck order, which they were going to take home and make into soup.  They shared an order (a full duck) of what they declared to be the world’s best Peking duck—and they should know, being from Beijing (formerly known as Peking).  We know what we’ll order next time!  But apparently, many people like the tea-smoked duck even better.  It is a half-duck portion served on-bone and featuring crispy skin.  Ginger-scallion Dungeness crab is also popular in season.  Another popular choice is fish dumplings filled with hand-cut fish as opposed to the machine-processed mousse that is usually encountered.  But our order was already placed for two lunch specials, both of which are house specialties.  Mine was a tasty, tangy shredded pork with garlic sauce.  The portion was large enough for me to take home leftovers for my next day’s lunch.

shredded pork with garlic sauce at Great China restaurant in Berkeley, California
shredded pork with garlic sauce at Great China restaurant in Berkeley, California


My dining partner had the walnut shrimp, which were large and tender and perfectly fried.  The spicy eggplant chicken isn’t spicy but is filled with colorful veggies (including zucchini and assorted bell peppers), and the tasty kung pao prawns with zucchini cubes is a must-order.  Each lunch special comes with delicious hot-and-sour soup, a crunchy small salad, a large fried spring roll, two orange slices, and rice (white, brown, or fried)—plus a fortune cookie for dessert.  Note that complimentary home-style kimchi is available upon request, and MSG is used lightly in mostly the blander dishes but you can request that it be omitted from your order.  And wine lovers will appreciate the selection here and will want to know that wine-pairing dinners can be arranged for a group of eight or more.  The wine program has been deemed "outstanding" and has won a James Beard award.


2020 pandemic update:  I just ordered take-out here for the first time ever.  I ordered two lunch specials, which are available Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday for $10.95 to $12.95.  The restaurant is closed on Tuesday.  The lunch includes an appetizer spring roll, salad, choice of rice, and a couple orange wedges.  We ordered kung pao shrimp and meat-heavy Mongolian beef and shared one for lunch and one for dinner.  It was just enough food for the two of us.  The procedure is to pay at the door and wait outside for your name to be called.  Masks are worn but not gloves.  They do not offer curbside pickup.



take-out kung pao shrimp at Great China restaurant in Berkeley, California
take-out kung pao shrimp at Great China restaurant in Berkeley, California


More pandemic updates.

More things to do in Berkeley.

Way more things to do in Berkeley. 

More ideas for exploring Northern California.

images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers
updated 8-2-17; 8-17-18; 7-16-20 

October 20, 2014

Introduction to Mill Valley

101 North 

Introduction to Mill Valley


Thought of by many as the quintessential Marin, this tiny town originated as an enclave of vacation cabins built by San Franciscans eager to escape the city’s notoriously cool summers.  It is said more professionals per capita live in Mill Valley than in any other community in the country.  The town rests at the base of Mount Tamalpais, the county’s principal landmark.

exterior of The Depot Bookstore and Cafe in Mill Valley, California
exterior of The Depot Bookstore and Cafe in Mill Valley, California


interior of The Depot Bookstore and Cafe in Mill Valley, California
interior of The Depot Bookstore and Cafe in Mill Valley, California


The Depot Bookstore and Cafe 

87 Throckmorton Ave., (415) 383-2665.  Daily 7-7.  
The unofficial center of town, The Depot Bookstore and Cafe was once the town’s Northwestern Pacific Railroad depot.  It offers both indoor and outdoor seating and a plethora of reading material.  The board menu lists coffees, sandwiches, soups, and pastries.

October 17, 2014

Mill Valley: Old Mill Park + Mill Valley Market; things to do

101 North 

Old Mill Park  

On Throckmorton Ave./Old Mill Rd., (415) 383-1370.  Free.  Dogs permitted on leash. 

Holding the town’s namesake 1834 sawmill, pretty Old Mill Park is sheltered by redwoods and offers idyllic stream-side picnicking.  No redwoods pre-date the mill, which was built to cut up the area's old-growth trees.  Most current trees began growing after the 1860s.  It is interesting to know that the mill provided lumber for the Presidio in San Francisco.  A rustic sun-speckled playground area has picnic tables, some of which are inside a fairy-ring circle of giant second-growth redwoods (they grow around what must have been a giant 20-foot-circumference redwood).  The park is famous as the beginning point of the 7.5-mile Dipsea Trail leading to Stinson Beach.  The Dipsea Race was first held in 1905 and is considered the first significant trail race run in the U.S.


produce at Mill Valley Market in Mill Valley, California
produce at Mill Valley Market in Mill Valley, California


Picnic Pick-Up

Mill Valley Market  

12 Corte Madera Ave./Throckmorton Ave., (415) 388-3222.  M-Sat 7-7:30, Sun 9-7.

Family-owned since 1929, the small but well-stocked Mill Valley Market began as a produce market but now sells everything required for a fabulous picnic.  It specializes in locally made products and even grows some of its own produce.  An extensive selection of honeys, mustards, green olives, vinegars, salad dressings, and jams are on the shelves, and a deli/bakery tucked in the back dispenses prepared salads and baked goods.  


More things to do in Mill Valley.

Even more things to do in Mill Valley. 

More top hikes from around the world.

An overnight escape to Mt. Tam.

More ideas for exploring Northern California.  
 
image ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers
updated 3-7-20

October 15, 2014

Introduction to Sausalito

101 North 

INTRODUCTION TO SAUSALITO


A Little Background

view of San Francisco from Sausalito, California
view of San Francisco from Sausalito, California


People come from all over the world to stroll Bridgeway, the main street in this warm and sunny town.  A former fishing village, Sausalito is often referred to as California’s Riviera and is now a magnet for both artists and tourists and remains a pleasure for both.  Restaurants and boutiques abound, and the view across the bay to Tiburon and San Francisco is stellar.

hillside stairway in Sausalito, California
hillside stairway in Sausalito, California


Take time to climb some of the intriguing hillside stairways found throughout town.  Once shortcuts to brothels and speakeasies, they now lead to beautiful bay views.  Excelsior Lane is the longest.  A warning—the largest source of income for the city is parking fines.  It is interesting to note that Jack London wrote the opening chapters of The Sea Wolf here.

Vina del Mar Park in Sausalito, California
Vina del Mar Park in Sausalito, California


Viña del Mar Park  

Bridgeway/El Portal, downtown. 

Named for Viña del Mar, Chile, which is a Sausalito sister city, this sweet little triangle-shaped park is known for two features left over from the Court of the Universe (which was designed by Sausalito architect William Faville) at the 1915 Panama Pacific Fair and Exposition in San Francisco:  its fountain and twin 14-foot elephant statues (known as Jumbo and Pee Wee) which now serve as streetlights.  They were moved here by ferry when the fair closed, and are not the originals but instead concrete versions made from a plaster cast.


More Information:

Sausalito Chamber of Commerce  1913 Bridgeway, (415) 331-7262. 

Visitor Center and Historical Exhibit  780 Bridgeway, across from Poggio Restaurant, (415) 332-0505.  Free. 
    The Sausalito Historical Society operates a small museum inside this former icehouse originally located on Caledonia Street.  Exhibits include photos of the building of World War II’s Liberty ships. 


More things to do in Sausalito.

More ideas for exploring Northern California.  
 
images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

updated 3-4-24

October 13, 2014

Sausalito: Casa Madrona Hotel; hotel review

101 North 

Casa Madrona Hotel

801 Bridgeway.  64 rooms; 4+ stories.  Some kitchens & fireplaces.  Fitness center; full-service spa.  Pets ok.  Self- or valet parking $35.  Resort fee 8% of bill.  

marina view from Casa Madrona Hotel in Sausalito, California
marina view from Casa Madrona Hotel in Sausalito, California

Nestled against a picturesque hill above Bridgeway, the Casa Madrona Hotel offers lodging in either a converted 1885 Victorian house in back--the oldest structure in Sausalito, it is now dubbed The Mansion--or in newer, tastefully decorated contemporary rooms sprinkled down the hillside amid fragrant, blooming gardens and featuring water views.


The Alexandrite Suite at Casa Madrona Hotel in Sausalito, California
The Alexandrite Suite at Casa Madrona Hotel in Sausalito, California


The Mansion features tall doors, lovely original wood and tile work, and an ultra-luxurious Alexandrite Suite that is popular with celebs and which has its own exercise room and a secret passage.  Think Rolling Stones and Pink Floyd from the past; lips are more tightly sealed about the present due to non-disclosure clauses. 



Poggio Trattoria The Alexandrite in Sausalito, California
Poggio Trattoria The Alexandrite in Sausalito, California


Poggio Trattoria

Reservations advised.  Valet parking $24.

Under separate ownership, elegant Poggio Trattoria specializes in classic northern Italian fare.  Diners feast on delectable items such as crostini topped with Tuscan chicken liver, twice-cooked Tuscan vegetable-and-bread soup, and delicate wood-roasted whole fish with fennel.  Rustic pastas and grilled chicken are also very good, and don’t miss the killer Caesar salad.  




More things to do in Sausalito.

More ideas for exploring Northern California.

images ©2014 & 2024 Carole Terwilliger Meyers
updated 3-4-24

October 6, 2014

Mill Valley: Piazza D’Angelo; restaurant review

101 North 

Piazza D’Angelo  

22 Miller Ave., (415) 388-2000.

interior of Piazza D'Angelo in Mill Valley, California
interior of Piazza D'Angelo in Mill Valley, California

 
Designed to resemble an Italian town square, the large and comfortable Piazza D'Angelo restaurant has a retractable skylight over its main dining room and an Italian villa-style garden area for al fresco dining.  Terra cotta floors, original modern art, and contemporary Italian music combine to set the mood.

tagliatelle Bolognese at Piazza D'Angelo in Mill Valley, California
tagliatelle Bolognese at Piazza D'Angelo in Mill Valley, California


Rotisserie-grilled meats are excellent, as are the antipasti, risotti, and pastas, which are available in both full and half sizes (my favorite is the housemade tagliatelle pasta with Bolognese sauce).  Tasty pizzas baked in a wood-burning oven are also an option.  A rich tiramisu dessert, served in an oversize stemmed glass, is ample for two.



More things to do in Mill Valley.

Even more things to do in Mill Valley. 

More top hikes from around the world.

An overnight escape to Mt. Tam.

More ideas for exploring Northern California.

images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

October 3, 2014

San Francisco: Schroeder’s; restaurant review

San Francisco

Schroeder’s  

240 Front St., Financial District, (415) 421-4778.  No reservations for front.  L M-F, D M-Sat; $$-$$$. 

Dating back to 1893, Schroeder’s is the oldest and largest German restaurant on the West Coast.  It was closed for a while, but recently reopened with new owners.  

beer hall at Schroeder's restaurant in San Francisco
beer hall at Schroeder's restaurant in San Francisco


The open, updated interior includes a beer hall with communal picnic-style tables in the front, which is separated from a more formal restaurant in the back by floor-to-ceiling, see-through black mesh curtains.  Decor highlights include massive circular chandeliers that mimic those I’ve seen in German Oktoberfest tents, a large display of vintage steins through which you can view the open kitchen, and cleaned-up original dark wainscoting and Herman Richter murals from the 1930s.  On the Friday evening I visited, the front was packed and hopping with an after-work crowd.  Many people crowded around the vintage rosewood bar and others sat at tables drinking enormous boots of beer (they come in 2 and 3 liters).  The back dining room where I sat was more subdued.  Though the food is clearly described as modern Cal-German, it seems that many diners complain that it is not traditional German.  I loved the seasonal pickled vegetables that included carrots, cauliflower, little cocktail onions, and shredded fermented turnips.  And though I liked the spaetzle, it was actually more like a corn salad, with teeny tiny little spatzels the size of corn kernels mixed with actual roasted corn kernels and some ricotta.  

bratwurst at Schroeder's restaurant in San Francisco
bratwurst at Schroeder's restaurant in San Francisco

Bratwurst comes with sauerkraut, sour pickles, and hot mustrd, plus a soft roll that is perfect to sop up the sauce; but I noticed too late that my particular brat was undercooked (be sure to always check any sausage anywhere before you eat it).  


wiener schnitzel at Schroeder's restaurant in San Francisco
wiener schnitzel at Schroeder's restaurant in San Francisco

Wiener schnitzel was crispy but could use more flavor.  


Black Forest dessert at Schroeder's restaurant in San Francisco
Black Forest dessert at Schroeder's restaurant in San Francisco

The Black Forest dessert, which I desperately wanted to be the traditional Black Forest Cake of my dreams, was in reality a few delicious cherries and carmel corn mixed with a kirsch reduction atop a slab of dark chocolate.  Next time I’d like to sit in the front with the smallest boot and try the potato pancakes, which I hear are a must, and the sauerbraten, which I hear is coming soon.  

 
images ©2014 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

October 1, 2014

Guerneville: Guerneville 5 & 10; things to do

101 North

Guerneville 5 & 10  

16252 Main St., (707) 869-3404.  Daily 10-6.

Since 1949, this classic dime store has dispensed low-cost goods such as salt-water taffy, fake cigarettes, and Red Heart yarn.  Everything you need, but didn’t know you needed, is here at the Guerneville 5 & 10.  On my most recent visit, I selected a Big Cherry candy for my nostalgic purchase.  It was as good as I remembered, with a big red cherry in the center surrounded by sweet liquid and wrapped in a crispy chocolate cover.

exterior of Guerneville 5 & 10 in Guerneville, California
exterior of Guerneville 5 & 10 in Guerneville, California



interior of Guerneville 5 & 10 in Guerneville, California
interior of Guerneville 5 & 10 in Guerneville, California


Big Cherry candy for sale at of Guerneville 5 & 10 in Guerneville, California
Big Cherry candy for sale at of Guerneville 5 & 10 in Guerneville, California


Introduction to Russian River Region.

More things to do in Guerneville.

More ideas for exploring Northern California.

images ©2014+2019 Carole Terwilliger Meyers

updated 5-28-19

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